Wine Experts' Corner:

The corkage question by Mr. Todd

We all know that prices on wine lists at many restaurants can be quite high. Restaurants have such small profit margins on food that these big mark ups on wine and spirits help offset the costs of labor, utilities and health care. You would never pay 3 times the cost of a steak but we often, without issue, pay that for wine.

One way people offset this cost is to bring in their wine and pay a corkage fee. These can run from $5 a bottle to over $50 at places like The French Laundry in Yountville. As a restaurateur I always felt that the corkage price should be placed at a level that deters one from bringing in inexpensive wine but does not prohibit someone from bringing in that special bottle they have been saving.

I always priced corkage at $25 per 750ml. I was firm with my staff that once the guest’s bottle was in our possession, that we treated it as if it had come from our own cellar. We would place the appropriate glassware and decant if necessary. We would pour the wine for the table and refill when necessary. It was very important to me that this bottle was never treated any differently than a bottle purchased directly from our cellar.

Sometimes diners would arrive at the restaurant with 6 bottles of wines for their group of 6 and would be shocked when they received a charge for $150. I can tell you that it is awkward for any sommelier to discuss price with the host in front of a group ready to have a celebratory evening. The best thing to do is to find out the corkage policy when making your reservation. If you have special requests or demands for wine service, that is the time to arrange them with the wine team. I assure you that they will be more than eager to assist and that they will be prepared to handle the request. If not, then take your business elsewhere to an establishment that puts the customer AND wine first.

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